Friday 10 May 2013

Day 5 - St Jean de Luz to Seignosse

Distance cycled today 39 miles
Distance cycled since Modbury 219

Nice quiet evening last night, but still raining. We turned the TV on for a few minutes to catch up with the news and saw the flooding in central France. Also the hotel receptionist mentioned that 40 people had been injured by a lightning strike on a music festival campsite, so last night was not the time for us to be thinking of camping........as if we would have!

Wandered into town for a Basque meal of mixed salad (without the hard-boiled oeufs for Rob!), paella and a gateau Basque for me, some coconut and vanilla creation for Rob, washed down with a beer and some local wine. Very welcome.

Barely any heat coming out of the radiators last night so some of our stuff was still damp this morning. The polyester cycle clothing dries quickly but anything else struggles a bit.
One of my Ortlieb panniers may have let a tiny bit of water in at a seam on an outside pocket but otherwise they are still performing well.......and they've been subject to a lot of water!

Forgot to mention yesterday that we fiddled a bit with Rob's bike before getting adjustment advice from the Bike Cellar and the chain didn't come off yesterday. Craig and Angie had proposed only a quarter turn of one screw and I think we must have unwittingly done that. If we didn't and the problem repeats, we know what to do now anyway.

Both still feeling fit. Rob and I are starting to pick up insect bites and my arms and legs are itching for no visibly apparent reason. We sleep in just our underwear (sorry if you're eating when you read this) and Rob wonders if we've had contact with a bed bug or two. We've really no idea. I've got mosquito spray which I'll use if things get worse.

Anyway, I slept until 6 this morning which is good for me. The earlier evening meal (finished by 8.30-ish) and the stroll back to the hotel has helped. Rip van Winkle is still sleeping as I type this at 7am. (I tend to draft as much as I can when I get up, while waiting for Rob to stir and I then update it each evening. We always have a lot to do in the evenings and this saves time for me).

Being a planned rest day but not wanting to stay in the same expensive hotel, we got away at 10 after a mainly high-carb breakfast of breads, croissants and coffee which we both like. Rob suffers with indigestion and eats carefully if he's cycling whereas I'm like a dustbin and can eat reasonably anything.

We decided that rest days are for wimps (but see later) and hit Biarritz by 11 and circled the town as far as the one-way system would let us, looking at the sights. At 12.30 we stopped for lunch just short of Bayonne and press-ganged the girl serving in the cafe to take our picture.
We then pressed northwards and at one point stopped to ask directions from a family eating lunch in a wooded picnic area in the sand-dunes near the sea. I got caught up in conversation whilst clipped-in and circling their table, my front wheel hit soft sand and I toppled over, quite unceremoniously. I didn't see Rob behind me, who was making drinking gestures to the family, suggesting that I was the worse for wear. They even offered me water! The swine - no sympathy either!

We reached Seignosse, tomorrow's intended destination about 18 miles north of Bayonne, after some relaxed cycling on just undulating roads, at 3.45, stopped at the tourist office and found that all hotels and B and Bs were full. Apparently there were bank holidays the previous 2 days and the French were making a long weekend of it. Why can't they go back to work like everyone else?
We were starting to become very concerned but the helpful girl in the office suggested a mobile home. Again, those were full but we did manage to get a 4 person tent, complete with proper beds, cooking facilities and electrics. (The other 2 people in the tent aren't so happy at our joining them of course - only joking).
So the bikes are parked out of sight and there's a restaurant on the campus. 70 euros for a minimum 2 night stay for both of us, so we've decided to take our rest day tomorrow and catch up with our washing. It will also help our budget. There's even a heated pool on site and crazy golf, I think!

Oh yes, and it's sunny. No rain today. I'll repeat that - NO RAIN! What a difference it makes. There's a bit of a fresh northerly wind but that's fine. The temperature was around 20C. I've got sun burn on my arms (but smart-arse put cream on).

Photos:
The view from our gold-plated balcony this morning.
The coast and surfers at Biarritz.
Us at lunchtime just short of Bayonne.

2 comments:

  1. sounds like you are having a very interesting time. Varied weather- which we are also having, and was the same in the US- 25 degree to 14 in the space of a couple of days with forked lightening and massive thunder claps! the world is in a muddle. Interesting choice of food too. you two are starting to sound like a married couple discussing the washing- bed bugs-suncream application and sleep patterns- surprised no mention of snoring or other bodily functions. I hope you are enjoying the scenic countryside and pretty villages- i remember it being quite lovely around Biarritz. Tell me have you seen any Silk trees?- these are a favourite but has caused Rob many a driving nightmare when I have pointed them out instead of giving directions. they have pretty pink feathery pom poms. anyway boys, hoping those bottoms aren't to saddle sore and that you have a well-earned enjoyable rest day playing crazy golf and supping wine. Lots of love S and R xxx

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  2. One moment, did I read that correctly? You had a paella in France? Let me get this straight. You have just spent three or four days travelling through northern Spain, the home to some of the world's top restaurants, Arzak, Murgitz and more, with a known foodie in Rob and the best you came up with was an 'ice-cream on a stick' (a magnum at a guess)? And the moment you hit France, known for its rich sauces and classical cuisine you ordered a traditional Spanish dish? Are you sure you are heading in the right direction? Am I missing something here?

    Well, at least you managed some sleep...I'm surprised that the restaurant stayed open until 20.30 - I found them closed at 19.00 when I lived there!

    You are certainly making good progress but I'll start to get very confused tracking you with these unscheduled pit-stops, and 'pressing on' when not expected, etc. ;)

    Anyway, catch up with your sleep tomorrow and we'll look forward to the next instalment.

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