Saturday 18 May 2013

Day 13 - La Rochelle to La Roche sur Yon

Distance cycled today 51 miles
Distance cycled since Modbury 504 miles

We had a bit of a mild panic last night in that we were relaxing in our room, have done our "chores" and were slowly repacking our panniers, chatting away, when we suddenly realised that we hadn't sorted out a hotel for tonight. (Forgotten about it completely! It was only an email from my Dad querying our route next that stirred something in my head).
We'd intended hugging the coast and staying at Jard sur Mer but by the time we checked, we found booking.com just kept coming up with expensive double rooms (not twin-bedded) or holiday studios and apartments. Damn, it's Saturday today and, of course, the French migrate to the coast for "le weekend" and so suitable accommodation might well be scarce. This is what happened last weekend when we spent Saturday freezing under canvas in Seignosse.

After a quick discussion we agreed to re-route further inland and we've now taken advantage of the fact that the Kyriad La Rochelle (our stay for the last 2 nights) is one of a chain and they kindly rang ahead to secure a twin room for us, with a room for our bikes, at the Kyriad in La Roche sur Yon. To confirm that inland is also cheaper, tonight's rate is 77 euros B and B for both of us (compared with Kyriad's 100 in La Rochelle).

Our route change also means that we are on a straighter line to the mouth of the Loire and are gaining some distance overall. This may be significant tomorrow (Sunday), as the day after (Monday - sorry, I'm sure you know what order the days of the week come in. It's for me, losing track of what day it is!) we have the St Nazaire bridge in our sights. We need to be fresh to cross that. Those that have used the bridge know that it's 2 or 3km long, curves in the centre and is exposed to cross winds. If we can avoid crossing that at the end of the day on Monday (when we thought that we might have to), or better still, cross at lunchtime when the French have other priorities, the traffic may be quieter and it will reduce what was planned as being a long day when we book into our other pre-booked hotel just north of Vannes on Tuesday (the day after Monday!).

Good breakfast again today as the Kyriad is frequented by lots of business people ........ err, but today's Saturday and there were none here - see what I mean about losing track?...... and we got away at 9 am.

We skirted La Rochelle city to avoid the jumble of one way streets (none going our way!) and headed north.

After a sunny rest day yesterday, the weather when we set off was bright and sunny but became overcast by mid morning. We managed to outrun the rain though which was forecast for the La Rochelle area. The main feature of the day however was a VERY strong headwind which turned today's 51 miles into the equivalent of 60 or more. It was very tough and a day for just getting our heads down and grinding away. If there had been any hills, I swear that we could have freewheeled down them and come to a stop halfway down, simply held up by the wind. At one point, I stopped for a call of nature and wee'd into the next village!
The terrain was largely flat with simply no cover or respite from the wind.

We made Lucon by 12 noon, circled the town around the cathedral so many times that they locked away the collection boxes, and eventually found our way out by 12.30ish.
After a lunch stop at Mareuil sur Lay at 1.30, we reached La Roche sur Yon by 3 and our hotel by 3.30. The hotel looks good and the bikes are safely locked away in a large conference room. The hotel has a restaurant ........ which is closed at weekends - can you believe it - but, wait for it, open on Mondays. Still, we have tea and coffee making facilities again and we're both looking forward to an early evening meal somewhere nearby and returning for some sleep.

Tomorrow's forecast is the same for winds with the added bonus of possible rain. Bliss!

Photos:
The village of Esnande just north of La Rochelle.
Entry to the Vendee.
Rob battling into the headwind.
A welcome drink at our destination.

1 comment:

  1. You can tell you were once the head of Health and Safety in an incredibly compliant industry. You are about the only guy (Elan) I know who would make detours to conform to a one-way traffic system! I think most of the cyclists in France or Spain (or anywhere else in the world) would cycle the wrong way down a one-way street even if it means mounting the pavement to cut-out a few extra tours of the city. :) hehehe

    The head-wind had to happen sometime en route and let's hope that you are over the worst of that type of hardship....you are both doing incredibly well, and the rest yesterday must have given you the strength to battle in tough conditions. Both well done - I'm impressed. You are making the whole task sound (and look) easy, when I know it's not. So good on both of you. That said, I'm convinced that all such events are down to one thing - damned good planning, and I know Elan how meticulous you can be in that department, but it is a lesson to the younger generation who are reading your blog - if you want to do something well, PLAN IT WELL!
    Sure things can 'not go according to plan' but there is always a back-up alternative.

    I remember the St Nazaire Bridge - it's some sight to behold, let alone ride over - careful of the cross-winds. I think I am right in saying they have a cycle track on the bridge...

    Are you taking any form of energy drink during your travels? I can't remember. Yesterday I discovered a new energy drink (I can't recall the name but will get hold of it in case anyone else is interested). No gas and no sugar!

    Hope you manage to get some rest tonight. Looking great in terms of timing for your tour...stay safe.


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